Road trip in Puglia: Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare was the last stop of our Puglian road trip. It was a place to slow down and pass the days swimming in glorious Adriatic waters. Our private rooftop patio overlooking the iconic Cala Porto beach was the ideal base for this. White pebbles of Cala Porto make the beach look spectacular but they are not fun to lay or walk barefoot on (water sandals are a must!), so we appreciated having our own beach beds and umbrellas on the patio.

We stayed in Polignano over the weekend, and my ultimate, euphoric Italia moment happened on a Saturday night when the whole town square sang along with a street musican “Lasciatemi Cantare”, a song of my Soviet childhood.

Food-wise, there are two things to mention about Polignano: gelato is great everywhere and Il Quadrifoglio on via Roma has very good, the best pizza. So good that my partner, who teases me for immediately wanting to repeat good experiences, requested we go back to Il Quadrifoglio two nights in a row.

On the last full day in Polignano, after the mandatory morning swim, we drove to Matera. Curved out of the flanks of a steep ravine, it is one of the oldest continuously living cities in the world. During the last century, it swung back from an isolated, poverty ridden slum to the gem it deserves to be.

Road trip in Puglia: Gallipoli and Lecce

Our road trip continued to Gallipoli, a coastal town on the Ionian sea. On the way there, we spent a few hours in Lecce wandering narrow streets of golden sandstone. Afternoon delights included a gelato from pasticceria Natale and unexpected shopping: a perfect straw hat from a local craftsman (has been making hats since 1875!) in a cute well-curated store and a dozen Lanza Le Calze socks made locally in Salento.

In Gallipoli, Palazzo Presta was our base. It is a paradise of maximalist design in the historic center, steps away from the Purità beach. This beach was great for an evening swim the day we arrived. Although it is right by the town walls, the water is so clear you can see everything meters deep. Yet, the true highlight was a day at a beach club (a Palazzo Presta compliment) a few kilometres south of town. Walking to the beach through a pine grove, we could already catch a glimpse of intensely turquoise waters as they appeared in the distance.

Back at Palazzo Presta, the rooftop bar is not to be missed at sunset for aperitivo. The restaurant is good, but we regretted booking both our dinners there and missing out on the lively dining scene just outside the hotel. At night, the warm air smells faintly of fried calamari, tables spill onto the streets, and local families and tourists dine side by side until very late.

Road trip in Puglia: Masseria Le Carrube

To get to Puglia, we took a train from Rome to Bari, and in Bari we picked up our perfect road trip companion: a convertible Fiat Cinquecento. Securing a convertible did require an extra step (taking a train from the Bari train station to the car rental location at the Bari airport) but it was easy enough and absolutely worth it!

Our first destination in Puglia was Masseria Le Carrube, located about 10 km inland from the coast, 10 km away from Ostuni, and an hour drive from Bari. Masserias are fortified farmhouses typically built around the 16th century in olive groves of the Puglia region. Many of them have been converted to hotels, and they pack all the comforts of modern life inside their centuries old stone walls.

The beauty of this place was hard to believe, and I felt like pinching myself to make sure I was not dreaming. One of the highlights was an intimate 7-course vegetarian dinner served in the peristyle for a dozen guests.

We spent two nights at the masseria, which is probably the ideal time to enjoy this property. On our second day there, we spent the morning at the nearest public beach swimming in the sea, the afternoon chilling by the pools of the masseria, and the evening walking the labyrinth of streets in Ostuni.

Rome, a love letter

I wish I had more time in Rome. Every bite is so rich, it changes your life. The air is luminous, terra-cotta walls radiating a golden glow. Each turn of a street brings a wonder: a frescoed ceiling through an open window in someone’s apartment, a street violinist gathering the crowd of a pop-star, a sculpture looking soft as flesh. The task of giving recommendations on Rome makes me feel small. I’m not a Roman, not an Italian, not even an art historian. These are just a few things we enjoyed during our short stay in the eternal city on the way to and from the south of Italy, Puglia.

Borghese Gallery

Bernini marble sculptures are a miracle. Book in advance, take the guided tour

Roman pizza by slice

We had our first bite from a random bakery in Nomentano just a few hours after landing, and it erased the trauma of an overnight flight in economy class. If you can though, grab your slices for lunch at Pizza Florida.

Gelato

I’m not ready to trust just any place with my gelato. I have done my research including checking the recent Gambero Rosso recommendations, and then I found this map that makes identifying the nearest legit gelato shop easy. A heads-up: Fatamorgana has the most complex flavours (avocado, lime and white wine!) and multiple locations facilitating access to pleasure.

Restaurants

My friend, a fellow hedonist, and an Italian who has lived in Rome, provided me with most of the recommendations on this list (marked with “*”). Book ahead of time

Ditirambo*. Easy to reserve online. I had the best octopus of the trip there. My boyfriend’s tartare melted in the mouth. “Oder the sucking pig”, said my Italian friend. I don’t even like pork, but I did. Divine.

Roma Sparita*. They will take a reservation via email. Go there for a Roman classic, cacio e pepe.

Barred. Easy to reserve online. Very experimental. Great natural wines.

Botega Tredici. Easy to reserve online. One of my best meals in Italy.

Other places we didn’t get to go but you should:

Trattoria Monti*. They will need a reservation over the phone, as early as possible

Trattoria Morgana*. Easy to reserve online

Shopping

I like pieces that capture the essence of a place. For me, in Rome, that’s vintage (because true beauty, like this city, is timeless) and shoes. Twice Vintage in Trastevere has a great selection of designer silk scarfs. Lesley Luxury Vintage has two stores in city center, and is a truly impressive selection of items of outstanding craftsmanship. For high-quality Made in Italy shoes, check Velasca, Il Gergo, and Marta Ray.

I did not have all this much time to explore independent boutiques in Trastevere and Monti, but loved my quick visit to LOL Roma, a concept store of hand-picked Italian apparel.

 

The apartment

The most tasteful, elegant, and thought-through space I have ever stayed in, and such a fitting space to experience Rome from. This apartment in the Roman Ghetto is a jewel.

House tour

It’s been a little over a year since I have put an offer on a Mile End condo while sitting on a bench at Café Olimpico just steps away. Magically, amid the chaos of the bidding wars, my offer was accepted within hours.

While my taste in the Montreal real estate has changed over the years (hello, century triplex!), the love for Mile End remained constant ever since I discovered it on a hot August afternoon in the summer of 2014. That time, I biked here from St-Henri with two friends; we stopped for a sandwich at Boucherie Lawrence, got a latte freddo at Olimpico, and walked the streets for hours. The condo I finally bought is on the second floor of a century triplex about halfway from Boucherie Lawrence to Olimpico. Some details may still need to be ironed out, but the overall look is mostly complete. Here are some pictures taken throughout the year.

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Entryway

My boyfriend, the head of the hip design firm Voilà:, and I built this bench from scratch this summer. It came out better than we expected, and it fits the space between the window and the wardrobe perfectly (phew). The wall above the bench is still missing a large round mirror though.

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Office

The size of my entryway is pretty generous, so I set up my office there. I work from a standing desk (by Montreal brand ergonofis) that does not make the space look bulky.

The framed Flower Power cover of The Guardian Weekly by the Argentinian artist Carolina Grandinetti was a challenge to obtain. I searched high and low for this issue on women driving political change in Belarus, but the North American issue was different and the European was not available in Montreal. Eventually, a friend of a friend sent it to me from London. I am hoping to take her for drinks or tea one day.

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Guest bedroom

This room came together first. The lamp was left behind by the previous owners, and I wanted the the rest of the room to complement its warmth and to feel more laid back than the main bedroom. The bed frame is my old Ikea Malm frame with the headboard removed.

The artwork on the wall is a housewarming gift from the artist herself, my stepdaughter Maya, who, along with her sister, have been the only guests in this room so far.

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Living room

The green sofa and amber side table are from a Montreal brand élément de base. The side table is also carried by the MOMA design store at a tourist price.

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The mushroom coffee table next to the arm chair (Article) is an old EQ3 design, and it came with me from St-Henri. It does not really fit this apartment except for every other Thursday, when we get a take-out order from Sushi Yen, a hidden gem on Van Horne, and eat them on this table while watching TV. The top of the table rotates 19” high.

TV (The Frame by Samsung) is the first TV I own in 15 years. I mostly got it for aesthetic reasons, because it does not look like a TV, but, surprisingly, have been enjoying it for its primary function.

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Master bedroom

I have been coveting the Kastella B107 bed for years. Since Kastella’s show room is in the Mile End too, I finally pulled the trigger and splurged on the bed to reference this stellar local craftsmanship in the design of the apartment.

Playful mint green side tables from Hay break the neutral palette of browns and whites in this room.

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Bathroom

I love a big bathroom. This one came modern and neutral, so I did not have to do much. The cover of Stylist on “how to be (un petit peu) more French” is by Malika Favre.

The Onsen waffle towels come Wirecutter recommended and are loved by the whole family.

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Kitchen and dining nook

My old tulip dining table fit perfectly in a dining nook by the window. Thonet chairs (I have 2) are a vintage find from a Mile End store, Style Labo. The lamp is a Nelson Bubble Lamp by Herman Miller.

The building was completely renovated in 2017, and although the doors, windows and trim are new, the millwork is typical for early XX century homes.

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Terrace

For years I have been dreaming of hosting dinner parties al fresco. This terrace was the major selling point and a dream come true. All outdoor furniture is Article.

La Belle Alliance

I wanted to title this post “How five women economists and one pug drove to the south of Quebec and bought $800 worth of local wine” but it appeared a tad too long. However, now the angle of this story should be more clear: girl (purchasing) power supports Quebec winemaking. All matters (women, Quebec and wine) are dear to my heart and, hopefully, yours as well.

The idea of this trip was born a few months ago at a wine tasting event some of us attended. The highlights (from what I have heard) were a hot chef and a very good orange wine from a local vineyard La Belle Alliance (the actual title is now explained). While the lead with the hot chef didn’t turn into a case for anyone (I am very sorry for professional jargon, this won’t happen again), the lead with the orange wine eventually did (into 2.5 cases, to be precise).

One Saturday morning in July, we packed our picnic blankets, a carefully curated picnic menu, and the pug in an unmemorable rental car and headed to Shefford in Eastern Townships, home to La Belle Alliance. The region is one of the cutest in Quebec, and the vineyard grounds are no exception. Upon arrival, we were welcomed by Brock, an economist/litigator (so far, everyone in this story is either an economist or a pug) turned winemaker, who runs this family enterprise with his life partner Carolyn.

La Belle Alliance is young. It produced its first wine in 2016 and now caries four varieties: red (L’amour), white (Toujours), orange (Entre) and rosé (Nous). Brock has told us that the quality of ingredients and the taste of the final product are the two things that guide their work - a philosophy I share and impose on others. The wines are not natural and, technically, not organic, although the interventions are minimal (the loss of grapes due to diseases at a small vineyard doesn’t justify the spraying).

The wines are good. I won’t pretend I know how to talk about wine, but you know good wine when you taste it. Entre and Nous were my personal favourites, and I would have gotten some L’amour too, but my season for reds starts in October. Wines are sold on the spot, and discounts are offered starting from half a case. We sealed our deal and had a picnic on the vineyard grounds.

PS: If you are in Montreal and would like to try the wines, Brock told us that Depanneur Peluso in Little Italy carries them.

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Entre

Orange wine from Quebec

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Parisian addresses

By no means I consider myself an expert on Paris, but I thought I’d put together a list of addresses that were a part of my carefully curated Parisian experience.

In terms of eating out, most places I’d ever recommend have to respect the ingredients and, ideally, be mindful of the seasons. Although there are many places like that in Paris, here I listed a few addresses that offer menus of small shareable plates and don’t necessarily require reservations, a format that works well for someone who wanders around Paris with a camera and no particular plans.

In terms of shopping, my intention was to find few pieces that capture the essence of Paris in both obvious and unique ways, and which would keep for years as souvenirs and simultaneously something I use in daily life.

In terms of museums (art, really), if that’s your thing, you’ll probably check what’s happening at a particular moment and where, so my only suggestion is one permanent collection that might fall a bit under the radar.

Here we go.

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Food

Clamato. A seafood-centric restaurant. Wines are natural. Menu changes daily. Reservations not accepted. To get in smoothly for dinner, arrive by 7pm or after 9pm.

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Clown Bar

They say veal brain is the thing to order, but my choices were all vegetarian. If you sit at the bar, the barman might compliment you with a glass of natural wine he finds exciting. Service is a bit slow but it’s fine if you’re not in a rush.

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La Buvette

Natural wines and small plates. Works well for a decadent lunch.

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Holybelly 5

Intimate and sophisticated take on breakfast pleasantly unpopular among tourists lining up at Holybelly 19 (which is also excellent if you arrive before 10.30am on a weekday or are able to tolerate a one+ hour waiting line).

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Things

Flolove Paris. The blouses are the answer to the question on how to be (un petit peu) more French.

Maison Chateau Rouge. A made-in-Paris label mixing African prints with contemporary cuts. I have to mention that I got a 50 euro personal discount on that dress for any or all of the following reasons 1) I looked stunning in it 2) I came from an exotic country of Belarus 3) the designer Youssouf Fofana was too kind.

Merci. The concept store I find slightly overrated, but linen placement mats and napkins are irresistible for someone who values an elegant meal at home.

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Art

Musée de l'Orangerie. If you are looking to escape the crowds at Musée d'Orsay and have a more meditative experience in the company of Monet and all your favorite post-impressionist.

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Homage to Monet by Alex Katz because appropriation is my favourite art technique.

Returning to Minsk

I moved away from Minsk when I was 22. I missed it tremendously in Moscow, yet it was also the time when I’ve developed a bit of a condescending attitude towards it. Minsk was endearing but at the same time so tragically unhip. I never felt stronger about this than when I came to visit last time, in the summer of 2015, being already based in Montreal. I remember spending most of my days on the couch with mom and the dog. I ventured out on several long walks around the city and was restless on streets deprived of any vibe, nothing happening.

Fast forward to summer 2019. I was nervous to go back. On the way from the airport I was asked if Minsk had changed, but It looked the same, only older. Yet, after a few days, I began to feel its new rhythm. I joined a nice gym. I started running along the river, an area revamped to an extend that in awe I kept going for 1Ok every time.  High on endorphins, sitting on a curb by a trendy wine bar with a glass of Pinot Gris and staring at an enormous ad of the national potash fertilizer producer, it struck me. Minsk was emerging as a rough on the edges ultimate Eastern Europe destination. A place where an adventurous traveller who ventures out to discover it is rewarded with many treasures.

Bars, cafes, and cute little shops inhibit decaying elegant socialist classicism buildings and ugly Khrushchev era residential clusters. Designers and artists occupy former industrial wastelands, places I had no clue existed. Bike paths run through the city. The unchanging political regime (a brand in itself) is making love to Belarusian cultural heritage. Things are pretty cheap. Service is naive and unpolished but so heartfelt. And ice-cream - rye with salt, linen and cornflower, buckthorn, condensed milk with bacon and latkes – is delightful.

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Souvenirs

from Minsk

And here is a list on what to bring from Minsk:

  • ceramics from moon ceramics

  • bags from mattioli (design is a hit and miss, but the quality is impeccable and the price is ridiculously low)

  • fun pins and sleep masks from vialiki dziakuj

  • pictures of your family

Kabin Sutton in the winter

Sutton, south of Montreal on the border with Vermont, is a perfect weekend getaway. The attraction that first brought me to the region, Balnea Spa, is only a short drive away from there. There’re Parc environnemental naturel de Sutton with 52 km of hiking trails, alpine skiing at Mont Sutton, and cross country skiing at Plein Air Sutton. Finally, there is the village of Sutton itself, which despite a modest size is full of charm, life, and sexy commerce.

Kabin Sutton caught my eye a few years ago for that striking combination of beautiful landscape and simple elegant design. At the end of December 2018, I was lucky to snap two nights there, which turned into one of the best experiences of the year. A few recommendations on a stay follow.

Kabin Sutton requires you to book at least two nights. This is good, and you might actually want three. A well-rounded experience should include good food. Leaving for the Kabin, pack your trusted olive oil, salt and pepper mills. Arrive to Sutton for lunch, then stroll the village, explore the above mentioned sexy commerce, and get the rest of you supplies.

In a delightful cheese store - La Rumeur Affamee - besides cheese, you will find fresh bread and pastries, local milk, yogurt, and granola, excellent soup (frozen), fresh pasta and pasta sauce. Seasonal produce is sometimes available during the warmer months, so for your greens, fruit and raw proteins you will have to go to the village IGA (this time of year pay attention to Meyer lemons, pomegranates and persimmons). You can get the logs for the fireplace at the IGA too.

After you settle in, go spend the evening at Balnea. There’s the gourmet evening package ($60), which includes a 3 course meal at the on-site restaurant (in my opinion, Montreal-level), and a full access to the réserve and thermal experience from 6 pm.

The rest of your stay, take in the beauty of the Kabin and the mountains in whichever way appeals to you best, and cook in. It’s fun.