Road trip in Puglia: Gallipoli and Lecce
Road trip in Puglia: Masseria Le Carrube
Rome, a love letter
I wish I had more time in Rome. Every bite is so rich, it changes your life. The air is luminous, terra-cotta walls radiating a golden glow. Each turn of a street brings a wonder: a frescoed ceiling through an open window in someone’s apartment, a street violinist gathering the crowd of a pop-star, a sculpture looking soft as flesh. The task of giving recommendations on Rome makes me feel small. I’m not a Roman, not an Italian, not even an art historian. These are just a few things we enjoyed during our short stay in the eternal city on the way to and from the south of Italy, Puglia.
Ditirambo*. Easy to reserve online. I had the best octopus of the trip there. My boyfriend’s tartare melted in the mouth. “Oder the sucking pig”, said my Italian friend. I don’t even like pork, but I did. Divine.
Roma Sparita*. They will take a reservation via email. Go there for a Roman classic, cacio e pepe.
Barred. Easy to reserve online. Very experimental. Great natural wines.
Botega Tredici. Easy to reserve online. One of my best meals in Italy.
Other places we didn’t get to go but you should:
Trattoria Monti*. They will need a reservation over the phone, as early as possible
Trattoria Morgana*. Easy to reserve online
House tour
It’s been a little over a year since I have put an offer on a Mile End condo while sitting on a bench at Café Olimpico just steps away. Magically, amid the chaos of the bidding wars, my offer was accepted within hours.
While my taste in the Montreal real estate has changed over the years (hello, century triplex!), the love for Mile End remained constant ever since I discovered it on a hot August afternoon in the summer of 2014. That time, I biked here from St-Henri with two friends; we stopped for a sandwich at Boucherie Lawrence, got a latte freddo at Olimpico, and walked the streets for hours. The condo I finally bought is on the second floor of a century triplex about halfway from Boucherie Lawrence to Olimpico. Some details may still need to be ironed out, but the overall look is mostly complete. Here are some pictures taken throughout the year.
The mushroom coffee table next to the arm chair (Article) is an old EQ3 design, and it came with me from St-Henri. It does not really fit this apartment except for every other Thursday, when we get a take-out order from Sushi Yen, a hidden gem on Van Horne, and eat them on this table while watching TV. The top of the table rotates 19” high.
TV (The Frame by Samsung) is the first TV I own in 15 years. I mostly got it for aesthetic reasons, because it does not look like a TV, but, surprisingly, have been enjoying it for its primary function.
La Belle Alliance
I wanted to title this post “How five women economists and one pug drove to the south of Quebec and bought $800 worth of local wine” but it appeared a tad too long. However, now the angle of this story should be more clear: girl (purchasing) power supports Quebec winemaking. All matters (women, Quebec and wine) are dear to my heart and, hopefully, yours as well.
The idea of this trip was born a few months ago at a wine tasting event some of us attended. The highlights (from what I have heard) were a hot chef and a very good orange wine from a local vineyard La Belle Alliance (the actual title is now explained). While the lead with the hot chef didn’t turn into a case for anyone (I am very sorry for professional jargon, this won’t happen again), the lead with the orange wine eventually did (into 2.5 cases, to be precise).
One Saturday morning in July, we packed our picnic blankets, a carefully curated picnic menu, and the pug in an unmemorable rental car and headed to Shefford in Eastern Townships, home to La Belle Alliance. The region is one of the cutest in Quebec, and the vineyard grounds are no exception. Upon arrival, we were welcomed by Brock, an economist/litigator (so far, everyone in this story is either an economist or a pug) turned winemaker, who runs this family enterprise with his life partner Carolyn.
La Belle Alliance is young. It produced its first wine in 2016 and now caries four varieties: red (L’amour), white (Toujours), orange (Entre) and rosé (Nous). Brock has told us that the quality of ingredients and the taste of the final product are the two things that guide their work - a philosophy I share and impose on others. The wines are not natural and, technically, not organic, although the interventions are minimal (the loss of grapes due to diseases at a small vineyard doesn’t justify the spraying).
The wines are good. I won’t pretend I know how to talk about wine, but you know good wine when you taste it. Entre and Nous were my personal favourites, and I would have gotten some L’amour too, but my season for reds starts in October. Wines are sold on the spot, and discounts are offered starting from half a case. We sealed our deal and had a picnic on the vineyard grounds.
PS: If you are in Montreal and would like to try the wines, Brock told us that Depanneur Peluso in Little Italy carries them.
Parisian addresses
By no means I consider myself an expert on Paris, but I thought I’d put together a list of addresses that were a part of my carefully curated Parisian experience.
In terms of eating out, most places I’d ever recommend have to respect the ingredients and, ideally, be mindful of the seasons. Although there are many places like that in Paris, here I listed a few addresses that offer menus of small shareable plates and don’t necessarily require reservations, a format that works well for someone who wanders around Paris with a camera and no particular plans.
In terms of shopping, my intention was to find few pieces that capture the essence of Paris in both obvious and unique ways, and which would keep for years as souvenirs and simultaneously something I use in daily life.
In terms of museums (art, really), if that’s your thing, you’ll probably check what’s happening at a particular moment and where, so my only suggestion is one permanent collection that might fall a bit under the radar.
Here we go.
Maison Chateau Rouge. A made-in-Paris label mixing African prints with contemporary cuts. I have to mention that I got a 50 euro personal discount on that dress for any or all of the following reasons 1) I looked stunning in it 2) I came from an exotic country of Belarus 3) the designer Youssouf Fofana was too kind.
Merci. The concept store I find slightly overrated, but linen placement mats and napkins are irresistible for someone who values an elegant meal at home.
Returning to Minsk
I moved away from Minsk when I was 22. I missed it tremendously in Moscow, yet it was also the time when I’ve developed a bit of a condescending attitude towards it. Minsk was endearing but at the same time so tragically unhip. I never felt stronger about this than when I came to visit last time, in the summer of 2015, being already based in Montreal. I remember spending most of my days on the couch with mom and the dog. I ventured out on several long walks around the city and was restless on streets deprived of any vibe, nothing happening.
Fast forward to summer 2019. I was nervous to go back. On the way from the airport I was asked if Minsk had changed, but It looked the same, only older. Yet, after a few days, I began to feel its new rhythm. I joined a nice gym. I started running along the river, an area revamped to an extend that in awe I kept going for 1Ok every time. High on endorphins, sitting on a curb by a trendy wine bar with a glass of Pinot Gris and staring at an enormous ad of the national potash fertilizer producer, it struck me. Minsk was emerging as a rough on the edges ultimate Eastern Europe destination. A place where an adventurous traveller who ventures out to discover it is rewarded with many treasures.
Bars, cafes, and cute little shops inhibit decaying elegant socialist classicism buildings and ugly Khrushchev era residential clusters. Designers and artists occupy former industrial wastelands, places I had no clue existed. Bike paths run through the city. The unchanging political regime (a brand in itself) is making love to Belarusian cultural heritage. Things are pretty cheap. Service is naive and unpolished but so heartfelt. And ice-cream - rye with salt, linen and cornflower, buckthorn, condensed milk with bacon and latkes – is delightful.
And here is a list on what to bring from Minsk:
ceramics from moon ceramics
bags from mattioli (design is a hit and miss, but the quality is impeccable and the price is ridiculously low)
fun pins and sleep masks from vialiki dziakuj
pictures of your family
Kabin Sutton in the winter
Sutton, south of Montreal on the border with Vermont, is a perfect weekend getaway. The attraction that first brought me to the region, Balnea Spa, is only a short drive away from there. There’re Parc environnemental naturel de Sutton with 52 km of hiking trails, alpine skiing at Mont Sutton, and cross country skiing at Plein Air Sutton. Finally, there is the village of Sutton itself, which despite a modest size is full of charm, life, and sexy commerce.
Kabin Sutton caught my eye a few years ago for that striking combination of beautiful landscape and simple elegant design. At the end of December 2018, I was lucky to snap two nights there, which turned into one of the best experiences of the year. A few recommendations on a stay follow.
Kabin Sutton requires you to book at least two nights. This is good, and you might actually want three. A well-rounded experience should include good food. Leaving for the Kabin, pack your trusted olive oil, salt and pepper mills. Arrive to Sutton for lunch, then stroll the village, explore the above mentioned sexy commerce, and get the rest of you supplies.
In a delightful cheese store - La Rumeur Affamee - besides cheese, you will find fresh bread and pastries, local milk, yogurt, and granola, excellent soup (frozen), fresh pasta and pasta sauce. Seasonal produce is sometimes available during the warmer months, so for your greens, fruit and raw proteins you will have to go to the village IGA (this time of year pay attention to Meyer lemons, pomegranates and persimmons). You can get the logs for the fireplace at the IGA too.
After you settle in, go spend the evening at Balnea. There’s the gourmet evening package ($60), which includes a 3 course meal at the on-site restaurant (in my opinion, Montreal-level), and a full access to the réserve and thermal experience from 6 pm.
The rest of your stay, take in the beauty of the Kabin and the mountains in whichever way appeals to you best, and cook in. It’s fun.