I wish I had more time in Rome. Every bite is so rich, it changes your life. The air is luminous, terra-cotta walls radiating a golden glow. Each turn of a street brings a wonder: a frescoed ceiling through an open window in someone’s apartment, a street violinist gathering the crowd of a pop-star, a sculpture looking soft as flesh. The task of giving recommendations on Rome makes me feel small. I’m not a Roman, not an Italian, not even an art historian. These are just a few things we enjoyed during our short stay in the eternal city on the way to and from the south of Italy, Puglia.
Borghese Gallery
Bernini marble sculptures are a miracle. Book in advance, take the guided tour
Roman pizza by slice
We had our first bite from a random bakery in Nomentano just a few hours after landing, and it erased the trauma of an overnight flight in economy class. If you can though, grab your slices for lunch at Pizza Florida.
Gelato
I’m not ready to trust just any place with my gelato. I have done my research including checking the recent Gambero Rosso recommendations, and then I found this map that makes identifying the nearest legit gelato shop easy. A heads-up: Fatamorgana has the most complex flavours (avocado, lime and white wine!) and multiple locations facilitating access to pleasure.
Restaurants
My friend, a fellow hedonist, and an Italian who has lived in Rome, provided me with most of the recommendations on this list (marked with “*”). Book ahead of time
Ditirambo*. Easy to reserve online. I had the best octopus of the trip there. My boyfriend’s tartare melted in the mouth. “Oder the sucking pig”, said my Italian friend. I don’t even like pork, but I did. Divine.
Roma Sparita*. They will take a reservation via email. Go there for a Roman classic, cacio e pepe.
Barred. Easy to reserve online. Very experimental. Great natural wines.
Botega Tredici. Easy to reserve online. One of my best meals in Italy.
Other places we didn’t get to go but you should:
Trattoria Monti*. They will need a reservation over the phone, as early as possible
Trattoria Morgana*. Easy to reserve online
Shopping
I like pieces that capture the essence of a place. For me, in Rome, that’s vintage (because true beauty, like this city, is timeless) and shoes. Twice Vintage in Trastevere has a great selection of designer silk scarfs. Lesley Luxury Vintage has two stores in city center, and is a truly impressive selection of items of outstanding craftsmanship. For high-quality Made in Italy shoes, check Velasca, Il Gergo, and Marta Ray.
I did not have all this much time to explore independent boutiques in Trastevere and Monti, but loved my quick visit to LOL Roma, a concept store of hand-picked Italian apparel.
The apartment
The most tasteful, elegant, and thought-through space I have ever stayed in, and such a fitting space to experience Rome from. This apartment in the Roman Ghetto is a jewel.
